About Diamonds

History and Lore

The Romans believed that diamonds brought courage and bravery during battle. Jewish high priests used diamonds to decide the innocence or guilt of the accused: A stone held before a guilty person dulled and darkened; a stone held before an innocent person glowed with increased brilliance.

The Hindus believed that this brilliant gem was created when bolts of lightning struck rocks. To be effective as a talisman, the gem would have to be given as a token of love or friendship. If bought or sold, it would lose its powers. April's birthstone, diamond is said to be at its most potent when set in steel. Of course today's diamonds are set in gold or platinum.

DIAMOND FACT: THE LARGEST ROUGH DIAMOND EVER FOUND IN THE WORLD IS THE CULLINAN DIAMOND FROM SOUTH AFRICA: 3,106 CARATS

A symbol of innocence, justice, faith and strength, the diamond was believed to make its wearers courageous and victorious over their enemies. When set in gold and worn on the left side, it held the power to drive away nightmares and soothe savage beasts. Diamonds were even thought to be so powerful that they could stop lechery.

Manufacturing
A diamond's trip from the mine to becoming a beautiful, polished gem has several steps, all of which must be executed with exacting care and attention to detail. We've put together an overview of some of the important steps, to give you an idea of where diamonds come from and how they become the brilliant and awe-inspiring gems that have been valued for centuries.

Mining
More than 250 tons of ore need to be mined to yield a one-carat rough diamond. However, only about 20% of all rough diamonds are suitable for use as gems. Since diamond is the hardest material known to man, the rest of the diamonds are used for industrial purposes, such as cutting, boring and grinding.

Diamonds are mined in the deepest area of Kimberlite Magma pipes (up to 75 miles deep) called "blue rock" or "blue ground", as well as in the shallower area 50 to 60 feet below the earth's surface called "yellow ground." Diamonds may be buried for thousands of years before being excavated from blue rock, or they may be released through the process of erosion and re-deposited in alluvium, forming alluvial (riverside) deposits. Today, more than 95% of the world's diamond supply is mined in South Africa. However, diamonds are also mined in Australia, South America, Russia and Canada.

DIAMOND FACT: THE TYPICAL BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMOND HAS 58 FACETS; 33 ON THE CROWN (TOP) AND 25 ON THE PAVILION (BOTTOM).

Marking
The first step in the diamond making process, marking is done after examining each rough diamond to decide how it should be cut to yield the greatest value. The shape of the rough diamond and the number and location of inclusions, or blemishes, are first considered. Since the crystalline structure of diamond causes it to have a grain (called cleavage), it is critical to plan for the facets of the diamond to be made in the correct direction. Taking these factors into account, the planner decides how the diamond should be cut and marks it to indicate where the stone should be cleaved or sawed.

Cleaving
After a diamond is marked it is sent to a cleaver or a sawyer, depending on the stone. When the stone is very large and valuable, cleaving it is a critical process, because a mistake by the planner or the cleaver can shatter the diamond. The cleaver's job is to cut the diamond into two pieces to bring out the best angles and establish what the final cut will be. Cleaving is performed by striking the stone with a sharp blow from a blade or hammer. However, some stones have too many stress points and might fragment if cleaved, so they must go to the sawyer. This process is extremely meticulous and time-consuming.

DIAMOND FACT: DIAMONDS ARE THE HARDEST SUBSTANCE ON EARTH, BUT BECAUSE THEY HAVE GRAIN, THEY CAN BE CHIPPED IF STRUCK.

Sawing
The saw used in diamond processing is a paper-thin disk of phosphor bronze that rotates on a horizontal spindle at about 4,000 rpm. The diamond is clamped so it rests against the blade and is sawed for several hours, depending on the size of the diamond. Since diamond is the hardest substance on earth, it can only be cut by another diamond. Therefore, diamond dust is used on the saw, as well as the actual diamond dust generated by the crystal being cut.

Cutting
The next step in cutting a round stone is called girdling, or rounding. The diamond is placed in a lathe and a second diamond is held against it using a long handle, which slowly rounds it into a cone shape. The next step is for the stone to go to the blocker, who specializes in placing the first 18 main facets on a brilliant-cut diamond. It then goes to the brillianteer, who places and polishes the remaining 40 facets (if the stone is being cut in the standard 58-facet brilliant cut).

Polishing
The last step in the diamond finishing process is polishing. The diamond is clamped onto a revolving cast-iron lap (a horizontal, circular disk) that has been charged with diamond dust. The fine diamond dust acts as an abrasive to polish away small imperfections and make the surface of the stone perfectly smooth.